My dear friend Judith, an exceptionally talented cook, has once again outdone herself. This recipe is her version of potato kugel, loosely translated as “pudding,” though more Yorkshire than chocolate. Potato kugel was a mainstay of my childhood.
In honor of Judith, whom we had the honor to host at our table recently, I am reposting this recipe, her own version of a dish that is so familiar and dear to me, and which I grew up eating on so many holidays and special occasions. My Grandma Rosie had her own special way of making potato kugel. She taught my mom how to make it, and that’s how I learned. Grandma Rosie’s version had you heating olive oil in a square glass Pyrex pan in the oven until it was spitting hot, carefully pouring the potato batter directly into the pan, and then sprinkling a little more oil on top prior to cooking it. Although it was “to die for,” Judith’s version gives you more control over the crust, and I am certain my grandmother would have loved it.
This is one of those recipes whose flavor generates memories that stay with you for the rest of your days. My Grandma Rosie would have said that it takes a little bit of potchky-ing (fussing). As Judith puts it, it’s “A labor of love you won’t regret.”
3 large Yukon Gold potatoes, shredded
2 large eggs
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1/3 cup garbanzo or fava bean flour
1/2 cup cilantro (plus more for garnish if desired), chopped coarsely
1/2 cup green onion, finely sliced
2 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. Kosher salt
1 1/2 tsp. fresh black pepper
water to mix
1. Combine all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl, except the water.
2. Add water as needed to absorb chick pea flour, so that the mixture is wet but sticks together (fairly solid). Too wet is better than too dry, so if you are unsure, err on the side of more water.
3. Heat a 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Add a generous slick of olive oil (approx 2 Tbsp.), and spoon potato mixture into the pan, spreading it into an even layer. Cook 3-4 minutes, reduce flame to medium, and allow to brown.
4. Preheat oven to 375 F. Once the sides of the kugel begin to crisp and brown, slide a knife around the edge of the skillet to loosen, reduce the flame to low, and allow to cook 10-15 minutes more. This time, slide a sharp spatula under and around the edges to loosen it from the pan.
5. Flip the kugel by placing a serving plate atop the skillet, and then flipping it so the cooked side now faces up. Return empty skillet to the fire, and increase the heat to medium-high. Add remaining olive oil, allow to heat thoroughly, and slide kugel, now raw side down, back into the skillet. Allow to cook over medium heat for 4 minutes.
6. Transfer the entire skillet to the preheated oven. Cook 15-20 minutes until done. Use a sharp knife to check the center of the kugel for doneness.
7. Flip the kugel onto a cutting board or platter, and slice into 8 or more wedges. Serve straight up, with a few slices of brisket, a squeeze of lime, more fresh chopped cilantro, a sprinkle of salt, a crumble of queso fresco, or a drizzle of Mexican crema, as you like. Bon appetit!