Category Archives: Ultraprocessing

A Quantity of Commodities

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Some time ago, Michael Ruhlman lent me a book by Chef Dan Barber called The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food. It took me a long time to get through the book, primarily because it made me think so hard that I could read barely one chapter at a time. In 2009, the same year I started writing Your Health is on Your Plate, TIME Magazine named Dan Barber as one of the 100 most influential people in the world.

Third Plate got me thinking about the fact that mainstream America survives not on nutritious food but, instead, on a commodity-based diet. When goods and services are traded on the grand scale for other goods and services, they become commodities. The primary characteristic of a commodity is that its price is determined not by quality but, rather, quantity. A commodity meets explicit contractual requirements unrelated to the product’s nutritive value or taste, so that the source and nutritional quality of the product become, essentially, irrelevant. Commodities from different producers are of more-or-less uniform quality and, therefore, considered equivalent. Food-based commodities include white flour, sugar, soybean oil, degerminated corn meal, corn syrup, and corn starch. Other kinds of commodities include coal, gold, silver, iron ore, and aluminum. Continue reading →

Big Food: The Industrialization of What You Eat

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What does it mean to be nourished? The word nutrition, related to “nourish,” comes from nutrire (Latin), meaning to feed, support, nurture, and also nurse. “Food,” from foda (Old English), is related to “fodder” and “feed,” and means nourishment or fuel. The purpose of food is to nourish. There is a fair bit of controversy about what constitutes good nutrition, but most successful strategies recommend increasing high-fiber foods like produce, legumes, and whole grains, while simultaneously decreasing ultraprocessed items like chips, commercially baked items, and “fast” food.  Continue reading →

The Trouble With Angel Food Cake

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Have you ever worked with someone whose actions made you hear your mom’s voice inside your head saying things like “Everyone gets a turn,” or even “Let’s be nice”? When my friend Dee’s kids complained about the seemingly unjust behavior of certain teachers or neighbors, she would suggest they consider them “negative role models.” Just as it’s important to have good examples in your life, it’s also valuable to have examples of behaviors you would rather avoid.

Year in and year out, I post recipes that have a lot going for them. I am always on the lookout for good examples of nourishing recipes made from whole foodstuffs, with plenty of produce, legumes, nourishing fats, and high-quality protein. Today I am trying a different approach: I am dissecting a recipe that has nothing going for it. This angel food cake mix is a negative role model. Its best use is as an example of what not to eat. Continue reading →

Real Food is Love

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It’s a new year, and I’d like to talk about why I write this blog. I want to make sure you understand how very great is the difference between real food and manufactured calories. Real food nourishes. At best, manufactured calories entertain. Manufactured calories also cause a great many serious medical problems. Like breast and colon cancer; diabetes, obesity, arthritis, strokes, and heart attacks. For starters.  Continue reading →

Color Your New Year

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It’s a new year, and I’d like to talk about why I write this blog. I want to make sure you understand how very big is the difference between real food and manufactured calories. Real food nourishes. At best, manufactured calories entertain. Manufactured calories also cause a great many serious medical problems. Like breast and colon cancer; diabetes, obesity, and arthritis; strokes and heart attacks. For starters.  Continue reading →

Michael Pollan Knows What He’s Talking About

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From time to time, when my journey into the mysteries of disease prevention was just beginning, I would discover someone whose work really spoke to me, who helped to clarify the things I was beginning to see, and who became a sort of personal mentor to me as I continued on the path. One of these people was Michael Pollan, who was catapulted to fame with his insightful and riveting books, especially The Omnivore’s Dilemma and In Defense of Food. He shared that Carlos Monteiro, a professor of nutrition at the University of São Paulo, was the first to label and define ultra-processed items. He said that whereas processed food could be made at home, ultra-processed items contained ingredients no normal person has at home, and required equipment you would find only in a factory. Touché.  Continue reading →

A Recipe for Ultraprocessed Cupcakes

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Today I want to spend a few minutes talking about why I feel so strongly about avoiding ultraprocessed items. I am going to share a story about an event that happened some years back, when someone I worked with decided one morning to pick up some cupcakes on her way into work. It was a very nice gesture, and I am sure that she had the best intentions. But this is an example of the fact that we must take personal responsibility for what we put into our mouths, because nothing will change if we do not. The only way Big Ultra Processed will stop selling these things is if we stop buying them. Call them items, things, or products, but you will see in a moment why they cannot be called food. Continue reading →

Fat, A Celebration of Flavor

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A few years ago I read a cookbook called Fat, a celebration of flavor by Jennifer McLagan. Luckily for me, there was plenty of sage growing in the garden behind my kitchen, so I decided to try the sage butter sauce recipe with pasta. Fry 30 fresh, whole sage leaves in two sticks of butter on medium heat for about 10 minutes, just until the butter begins to brown and the sage leaves turn crispy. Meanwhile, boil ­­­3/4 pound of pasta in salted water and drain when done. Pour the sauce over the hot, cooked pasta and serve with a simple green salad. I added steamed beet greens to the pasta as well. I’m not sure what I was expecting but the results were startling in every way. The texture and flavor were beyond heavenly. Continue reading →

Cottonseed Oil, Crisco, and Trans Fats

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About ten years ago, some fifty years after concerns were first raised about a possible link between trans fats and heart attacks, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) ruled that partially hydrogenated oils, the primary dietary source of trans fats in ultraprocessed food items, were no longer “generally recognized as safe” in human food. Processed food manufacturers were given three years to reformulate their products or to request an exemption. This action was predicted to prevent thousands of fatal heart attacks a year. Multiply that by 50 years to get an idea of the effect trans fats have on your heart.  Continue reading →