One of the things I like best about my CSA (community-supported agriculture) is the surprise. There’s nothing like opening a bag to discover something I haven’t seen before, something whose name I don’t know, or something I wouldn’t have purchased under other circumstances. This is nothing new; I’ve always felt like this, even before finding recipes was as simple as typing the name of an ingredient and tapping the ‘enter’ key. And it appears that it’s no secret, either; I was asked about my plans for the Swiss chard before I’d even left the parking lot this past Thursday, and there was a similar question by phone within a few minutes of arriving home! I shared my favorite plan: wash thoroughly, place the soaking wet, chopped stems under the leaves in a frying pan, steam for a minute or two just until the leaves begin to wilt, and then add a generous dollop of butter. Or olive oil if you insist although, in my humble opinion, it is not the same.
I don’t ride roller coasters and I don’t like scary movies. I’ve always felt that real life provides all the excitement I need. But I do enjoy traveling, particularly to places that I would never otherwise have chosen to go. To me there is nothing more fun than going along for the ride, cheering on people as they trust their instincts and follow the threads of their passions wherever they lead. I like ending up in places, physical or otherwise, that I myself would never have chosen. These have always been the greatest adventures of my life.
Even though it’s on a much smaller scale, my weekly share of produce gives me a similar feeling. I appreciate the zucchini, onions, and leafy green lettuce, but I adore the Swiss chard, the chamomile (jam it into a small mug and pour boiling water over it) and the things whose names I don’t know yet. They take me somewhere I have never gone. And that brings me to the subject of garlic scapes.
Earlier this season, you may have been one of many who asked, “What exactly are garlic scapes?” Garlic and its Allium family relatives (leeks, chives, scallions, onions) begin their underground lives as soft bulbs. As garlic bulbs harden, a shoot rises up and curls above the ground. This shoot,or flower stalk, is called the scape, and I read that it appears only on the finest hardneck varieties of garlic. If left unattended, the scape eventually straightens, hardens and turns the opaque white/beig
e color of a garlic peel. As it absorbs its share of energy from the plant, it also prevents the bulb from growing large and fragrant. So farmers harvest the scape in full curl, when it is still tender and delicious.
Here are a few things that you can do with garlic scapes. You can 1) grill them like asparagus; 2) chop them up and add them to eggs, vegetables, salad, rice, pasta or a stir-fry; 3) cut them to green bean size, saute them in butter and salt for 6-8 minutes, and add a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar the last minute of cooking; or 4) make garlic scape pesto. Toss pieces of 4-8 garlic scapes into a food processor. Add grated parmesan cheese and walnuts, toasted if you’d like. Use pumpkin seeds if you don’t eat nuts. Pour in 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, some salt and pepper, and give it a spin —> voila, garlic scape pesto! Spread pesto on toast, add it to pasta, or place a tablespoonful in a little ramekin with a raw egg (cracked open, no shell). Bake in the toaster oven at 350 for 10-12 minutes. The flavor of this simple recipe is so heavenly that if you make it for breakfast, it will put a glow on the rest of your day.
The last entry I wrote was about the vegetannual, the mythical plant creation of Barbara Kingsolver that represents the gardens that, like in real life, produce all food in its proper season, in its own time. Like all gifts from the garden, garlic scapes have their own season, so don’t miss your chance to eat ‘em up next time they come around!
©2009 Roxanne B Sukol